This week marks the return of vintage Longines dress watches, this time with an oversized reference 5559, quite close in looks to one of their recent releases. You will also see a new old stock Tudor Submariner 76100 with its characteristic “lollipop” hand; the watch also comes with its original box and papers. Two chronographs round out our selections, and each shows some dashing colors: the Heuer Skipper reference 7764 exhibits a stunning regatta counter, while theGirard-Perregaux Olimpico reference 9075AF offers an uncommon dial, and light brown bezel.
Longines Reference 5559, With Oversized Yellow Gold Case
You might think that you have seen this Longines before, and with good reason. It was first offered for sale on Instagram in May;and if you saw it then, you probably noticed its resemblance to the recently releasedLongines Heritage 1945. Granted, the bezels and lugs are slightly different in curvature, but the dial configuration is identical, for good reasons since this re-edition itself was inspired by a vintage piece also from the 1940s.
This Longines offers an oversized 18k yellow gold case; its 36mm diameter was actually slightly over-sized for wristwatches from the era. Based on the sharpness of its lugs, it actually looks unpolished, and the fixed strap bars are also in excellent condition. The balance of the dial is outstanding: the alternating numerals and applied indexes, the thin leaf hands and the large sub-register work beautifully together. Note however, that there is a small scratch on the dial, just below 9 o’clock. Lastly, the seller describes the manual-winding caliber 27M as in great working condition, and it very much looks this way.
This oversized Longines reference 5559 is priced at 4,800 Euros (or around $5,665).
Tudor Submariner Reference 76100, With Lollipop Hand
Yes, Tudor had its own version of the Submariner, and for more than 40 consecutive years since the mid-1950s. Yet it managed to differentiate it from the divers of its sister brand Rolex mechanically of course (Tudor was sourcing its movements from suppliers, while Rolex went in-house) but also aesthetically. The reference 76100 could not be a better example of that, with its unique “lollipop” hour hand, without the classical inner divide of the famous “Mercedes” hand from Rolex. The dial indexes were also a different shape, which Tudor also offered in blue (for vintage stainless steel Subs, Rolex followed the Ford motto, and you could choose “any color as long as it was black”).
Introduced in 1984, the reference 76100 was only produced for a short period of time, and is therefore harder to find, especially in the NOS condition of the present example. Not only is the condition flawless, but the watch comes full set with a guarantee (blank, unsigned and unstamped), hang tag, papers and box. The caseback still bears the original sticker, while the folded Oyster bracelet is of course included in this very complete set.
The Rolex dealer Eric Ku is offering this full set NOS Tudor Submariner 76100 for $10,000.
Heuer Skipper 7764, With Compressor Case
The reference 7764 was not the first Heuer Skipper, it followed the reference 7754 which was introduced in 1968. It was, however, the very first to be fitted in a large 40.5mm Compressor case, while the previous iteration used the 35mm Carrera case (hence its “Skipperera” nickname; more info on the Skipper family can be found onHeuerchrono). As expected in a regatta-dedicated piece of that era, there’s a 15 minute totalizer, with 5-minute increments to match the countdown of a race.
This feature was obtained through a modification of the caliber Valjoux 7730; just as Breitling was at the same time tweaking the Venus 178 to get different durations and displays of the elapsed minutes. The present Heuer Skipper shows an excellent dial, with a great regatta counter and patinated lume on the indexes and original handset. The Autavia case retains its original thick profile, and the well preserved engravings on the caseback and between the lugs shows that it has not been overpolished. Lastly, the minute/hour bezel is well preserved, without the deep scratches they often pick up over time.
Abel Court offers this great Heuer Skipper for 15,000 Euros (or around $17,730)
Girard-Perregaux Olimpico Reference 9075AF
The Olimpico name is self-explanatory: Girard-Perregaux released one chronograph for each edition from the 1950s onwards, and that for over 30 years. In the case of the present reference 9075AF, it is believed that is was made to celebrate the 1968 Mexico Games, although some believe it was actually created in conjunction with the 1976 Montreal Olympics. One thing we do know for sure, is it was manufactured by Excelsior Park, which also offered it under its own branding. This also explains the Excelsior Park chronograph caliber 40 lateral clutch and column wheel controlled found inside the case (called caliber 073 under Girard-Perregaux nomenclature).
This Olimpico comes with an extract from the Girard-Perregaux archives, and the seller indicates a 620-unit production. It also comes with a period correct and signed buckle and a branded box, both elements adding a bit of historical context to the watch. The case looks sharp, and the reference number is clearly legible between the lugs. The dial shows some even aging, more specifically on the its lacquer finishing, while the manual-wound movement is described as working properly.
This Girard-Perregaux Olimpico is listed on theChronocentric forum for7,500 Euros (or around $8,850).