Stainless steel. You could not summarize Baselworld 2016 any more succinctly. And there’s no mystery why it’s being so commonly used this year. High-end watchmakers are lowering price points in order to encourage watch enthusiasts to continue spending despite decelerating economies in their most important markets.
But taking an existing model and encasing it in stainless steel won’t do. The transition to more affordable metals requires sensible changes to some of the less obvious features of a watch, a rule which Moritz Grossmann followed brilliantly this week with the introduction of the Atum Pure Steel.
A gorgeous dress watch with an hours, minutes, and small seconds display, the Atum was previously offered only in precious metals, in rose gold for $36,100 and in white gold for $37,600. It’s now available for the third of the price, at $11,500. Now, that’s the kind of jump that makes you wonder how much of the good stuff has been chucked out of the original model?
But it’s the same in-house movement, albeit a much simpler finish, which powers the watch. The Calibre 201.0 returns without the German stripes on the characteristic 2/3 plate, or the hand-engraved cantilevered balance cock. Instead, it has been shot-peened to create a uniformly matt surface nicknamed the ‘Pure Classic Finish’ by Moritz Grossman. And it looks damn good.
The case itself measures 41 mm, sits flat on the wrist and presents a very nice profile. The curved lugs hug the wrist, and the watch is very comfortable to wear.
The dial is lacquered in white and offers a gorgeous backdrop for the stainless steel hour markers. The hour and minute hands have a lovely shape and a strong presence, which adds to the legibility of the dial.
The Moritz Grossman Atum Pure Steel will be available in three dial options, in white, grey and blue. Each is limited editions of 150 pieces. The watch comes on a hand-stitched alligator strap with prong buckle in stainless steel.
The Moritz Grossmann Atum Pure Steel: case, 41 mm; in steel; Movement, Moritz Grossmann in-house manually wound, frequency 18,000 vph, 42 hours when fully wound. Visit Moritz Grossmann right here.