Last year we were introduced to the BulgariÂ Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, which at the time was the world’s thinnest minute-repeater in production. Well, now Bulgari has added a ladies’ piece to the Finissimo Collection â the Bulgari Lady Finissimo. In fact, this is the first ultra-thin tourbillon produced for women by the brand (following on the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon).
This watch is an interesting choice for Bulgari, which is generally a brand associated with the Serpenti that I not-so-secretly
am obsessed with love, and big and bold jewelry. But the company has recently ventured into making more technologically advanced timepieces, like the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, with its ultra-thin 1.95mm movement.This watch is currently the thinnest tourbillon wristwatch in production (the thinnest ever was from Audemars Piguet in 1986).Â
So it should come as no surprise that Bulgari â traditionally thought of as a more female-focused manufacture â has released a ultra-thin tourbillon watch for women. The movement used in the Lady Finissimo Tourbillon is identical to the one used in the original Octo Finissimo Tourbillon: Bulgari caliber BVL 268. (Comparison of the version used today vs. the one used in 2014 shows some minor differences though â the original runs in 11 jewels, while the current version runs in 13, and if you look at the two side by side, you can see two more jewels in the new guy; they’re the upper and lower pivot jewels for the escape wheel).
The watch is made of 18k rose gold (also available in 18k white gold) and measures 41mm in diameter, which is pretty hefty for a “ladies’ watch” but I’m not complaining (seeing as I tend to complain about women’s watches being too small). The case is well-constructed, though part of me wishes that the lugs were a little longer and the case a little less wide, but hey what can you do? The bezel is set with 54 white diamonds, because what is a “ladies’ watch” without a little bling?
The dial has a shimmery sunburst brown finish, with Bulgari’s signature elongated indexes and Arabic numeral 12. The tourbillon, placed at 6 o’clock, whirs with great enthusiasm when wound. The sapphire crystal case back delightfully displays the manual-winding caliber 268 movement. Now, I am all about display casebacks, especially when the watch in hand is all about the movement (which this watch supposedly is), but I can’t help but feel a little let down when I look at the movement of this watch. Working in this industry has spoiled me, and I can’t help but yearn for a better finishing on the movement on this watch, however I do understand that the purpose of this watch is to be ultra-thin and not a mechanical Caravaggio.
So what are my final thoughts on this piece? Like the watch, they are a bit complicated. I like this watch because it is a complicated watch, and one that is actually wearable (unlike some others I have seen), and I think that the end of the day wearability and practicality are most important to women’s watches. On the other hand I can’t help but feel like this watch is, like so many women’s watches, an attempt to “feminize” a men’s watch. But I guess you can’t have your cake and eat it too, though one day I hope to.
The Bulgari Lady Finissimo Tourbillon retails for $126,000. For more details, you can visit the Bulgari website here.Â